Archive for December 1st, 2006

Dec 01 2006

Travels without Dad: August, 1991 (Part 1)

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It’s been almost Christmas tree, it inspired me to remember trips of the past.

To recap: I was in London visiting my father and went to Paris on my own (after 15 years, I can’t remember why he didn’t join me).

Now we rejoin our heroine’s past adventures:

Friday, August 23, 1991
Paris

Sitting by the open window of my room in the H?tel des Batignolles. Not surprisingly, it is in the rue des Batignolles, a neighborhood that’s new to me [the 8th arrondissement]. It is not at all touristy, though quite close to Montmartre. At the end of the street is a lovely, quiet square.

After tidying up, I walked to the rue de Rome, full of music stores, to the Gare St-Lazare. Once at the station, I bought a return ticket to Vernon, the closest station to Giverny, for the trip tomorrow. Then I walked down to the Champs Elys?es & changed some travellers’ checks. Had an omelette and a glass of wine at Fouquet’s, watching the people go by. It really is magical to be in Paris again.

Saturday, August 24, 1991
Paris & Giverny

Slept quite well on my down pillows. Walked to the Gare St-Lazare through quiet streets (it was early, Saturday, & August, the traditional holiday month). While waiting for the train, called Dad & bought some stamps. Pleased to have figured out the crazy French phones!

I must remember for future reference that there are no direct trains to Vernon on weekends. So I took an almost empty train to Mantes-La-Jolie and then changed to a train to Vernon. I am most impressed by the punctuality of the trains – mine was slated to leave at 10:37 and arrive at 11:33 and it really did!

You can take a bus from the train station to Monet’s house, but I took a taxi [some things never change!]. The driver was really kind and arranged to pick me up a few hours later. He also pointed out a 400 year old mill on the way, and said that his father had attended Monet’s funeral. Apparently Monet wished for no pretension, and his coffin was carried on a cart, like all the villagers.

I was quite surprised by how few people there were whe I arrived at the Monet museum. Entrance to both the house and gardens was 30 francs, or $5. I was enchanted by the beauty of the gardens. they are separated by pink gravel paths and often have voine-covered archways, but the overall effect is wild, uncultivated. A slim black cat lounged Cleopatra-like on a stone bench, disdaining the passers-by. [Unfortunately, the photos I took on this trip, including the cat, are in storage. They turned out great.]

The garden was a riot of color, filled with roses, hydrangeas, black-eyed Susans, sunflowers, and countless others I couldn’t name. The waterlily pond looked exactly as it was painted, and it was amazing to stand on that bridge and look at those flowers, especially since I had it all to myself. I had time to stop and think, to take it all in.

To be continued – hopefully in less than two months!

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